My second day in Georgetown was a journey from the sacred spaces inside the National Cathedral of Washington to the stark opposite, SHOPPING!
From the heart of Georgetown you really wouldn’t want to walk to the National Cathedral. It’s just too far, so hop in a taxi. It’s currently only about ten dollars plus tip to get there and especially during the summer heat, it’s the easiest, fastest and coolest way to travel.
You have a number of options for your tour of the cathedral. You can either join a tour group at designated times, self tour with a map, or use an audio guide. I picked the latter. After a brief explanation about the on/off features from the greeter at the desk, you listen to a brief instruction and introduction on the audio guide. I was really glad I chose this option because it allowed me to move throughout the cathedral as I pleased and avoid the large groups. Each stop was numbered clearly and the map that came with the audio guide showed exactly where each stop was.
From the heart of Georgetown you really wouldn’t want to walk to the National Cathedral. It’s just too far, so hop in a taxi. It’s currently only about ten dollars plus tip to get there and especially during the summer heat, it’s the easiest, fastest and coolest way to travel.
You have a number of options for your tour of the cathedral. You can either join a tour group at designated times, self tour with a map, or use an audio guide. I picked the latter. After a brief explanation about the on/off features from the greeter at the desk, you listen to a brief instruction and introduction on the audio guide. I was really glad I chose this option because it allowed me to move throughout the cathedral as I pleased and avoid the large groups. Each stop was numbered clearly and the map that came with the audio guide showed exactly where each stop was.
As with most cathedrals, when you walk inside you immediately feel the vastness and this particular day, the sun lit the many stained glass windows like shining jewels and their reflected light showered rainbow prisms of color along the walls and sculptures. It was stunning. My first inclination was to take pictures using my flash, but as I began snapping, a priest in a long black cassock ambled over and kindly told me that the pictures would turn out much better without the flash. He was right. You can’t catch the beautiful colors in the light if you use a flash. I send a prayer of thanks for that intervention!
One window that simply shouldn’t be missed is the “Space Window” located about half way down the nave. The colorful spheres suggest planets floating in deep blue space. The thin white line represents the flight path of the spacecraft Apollo II. Most interesting of all, if you look at the small round piece of white glass at the center of the large red sphere, you can see it contains a sliver of MOON ROCK brought back from the first manned lunar landing by astronauts in 1973.
As I gazed at the vibrant multihued windows and listened to the audio guide explaining the significance of the symbolism in the art and the history behind the cathedral, I embarked upon my journey through this magnificent church.
As I gazed at the vibrant multihued windows and listened to the audio guide explaining the significance of the symbolism in the art and the history behind the cathedral, I embarked upon my journey through this magnificent church.
Washington National Cathedral is the popular name for what is actually named The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul and it is an Episcopal Church. It is the 2nd largest cathedral in the U.S. 2nd only to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in New York.
The actual start of construction of the “great church for national purposes” did not start for more than one hundred years after it was first envisioned by Pierre L’Enfant, designer of the Federal City. In 1795, land was set aside during the city design, but the National Portrait Gallery was built on that location instead. It wasn’t until 1891 that plans were renewed for the cathedral and in 1893 a location was found on the commanding site of Mount St. Alban. Construction finally began in 1909 and President Theodore Roosevelt laid the corner stone in 1912.
Just before you enter the side aisle of the Nave, you see an alcove with a large statue of George Washington. That day it was washed in a rainbow of color from the nearby stained glass window. The statue was created by sculptor Lee Lawrie and when he designed it, he wanted to portray Washington not as the soldier, but as the man, coming into church pausing a moment before going down the aisle to his pew. The bay behind him displays symbolism representing his life and accomplishments.
When I continued along the Nave side aisle I found myself at what is called “Wilson Bay”, an alcove where the tomb of President Woodrow Wilson lies. He is the only president buried in the cathedral. His pale stone tomb has a sword sculpted on the top representing a crusader’s sword. It symbolizes his crusade for world peace following WWI. The thistles on the hilt represent his Scottish heritage. As with the other president’s bays, it was filled with loads of artistic symbolism representing President Wilson’s life and accomplishments.
The actual start of construction of the “great church for national purposes” did not start for more than one hundred years after it was first envisioned by Pierre L’Enfant, designer of the Federal City. In 1795, land was set aside during the city design, but the National Portrait Gallery was built on that location instead. It wasn’t until 1891 that plans were renewed for the cathedral and in 1893 a location was found on the commanding site of Mount St. Alban. Construction finally began in 1909 and President Theodore Roosevelt laid the corner stone in 1912.
Just before you enter the side aisle of the Nave, you see an alcove with a large statue of George Washington. That day it was washed in a rainbow of color from the nearby stained glass window. The statue was created by sculptor Lee Lawrie and when he designed it, he wanted to portray Washington not as the soldier, but as the man, coming into church pausing a moment before going down the aisle to his pew. The bay behind him displays symbolism representing his life and accomplishments.
When I continued along the Nave side aisle I found myself at what is called “Wilson Bay”, an alcove where the tomb of President Woodrow Wilson lies. He is the only president buried in the cathedral. His pale stone tomb has a sword sculpted on the top representing a crusader’s sword. It symbolizes his crusade for world peace following WWI. The thistles on the hilt represent his Scottish heritage. As with the other president’s bays, it was filled with loads of artistic symbolism representing President Wilson’s life and accomplishments.
There are five tiny chapels on the nave level. The tiny chapels of the “War Memorial Chapel” and the “Children’s Chapel” are quiet reflective cocoons tucked into the huge nave expanse. The War Memorial Chapel has come to be regarded as a special place for members of the Armed Forces because it recognizes the suffering of war and honors those who have dedicated their lives to their country.
At the entrance of the Children’s Chapel, a small bronze Christ child holds out his arms to welcome you into the children’s chapel. This chapel is set specifically aside for the use of children in the cathedral and light blue kneeling pillows are decorated with Sunday school bible figures.
The other chapels are dedicated to St. John, St. Mary, and the Holy Spirit and their small altars are magnificent masterpieces of art and sculpture. These peaceful chapels radiate the sensation of a sacred place and while I stood in silent contemplation I noticed that others visitors spoke only in reverent whispers.
At the entrance of the Children’s Chapel, a small bronze Christ child holds out his arms to welcome you into the children’s chapel. This chapel is set specifically aside for the use of children in the cathedral and light blue kneeling pillows are decorated with Sunday school bible figures.
The other chapels are dedicated to St. John, St. Mary, and the Holy Spirit and their small altars are magnificent masterpieces of art and sculpture. These peaceful chapels radiate the sensation of a sacred place and while I stood in silent contemplation I noticed that others visitors spoke only in reverent whispers.
The high altar in the semi circular area (the apse) at the far end of the cathedral beyond the choir stalls is referred to as the “Jerusalem Altar” because it is made from limestone from an ancient quarry outside Jerusalem. It is believed the stone came from the same quarry used to build King Solomon’s temple. The Ten square stones in front of the altar represent the Ten Commandments and were brought from the Chapel of Moses on Mount Sinai.
The wall sculptures or “Reredos”, behind the high altar which are carved of French Caen stone, are centered by the “Majestus” or “Christ in Majesty” medallion which is carved in the lighter colored Texas limestone. The Majestus is surrounded by 110 saints, prophets, martyrs and angels all lined up in their tall slim niches representing the highest ideals of Christianity and the Angels praise of god.
The wall sculptures or “Reredos”, behind the high altar which are carved of French Caen stone, are centered by the “Majestus” or “Christ in Majesty” medallion which is carved in the lighter colored Texas limestone. The Majestus is surrounded by 110 saints, prophets, martyrs and angels all lined up in their tall slim niches representing the highest ideals of Christianity and the Angels praise of god.
I followed curving stone steps off the corner of the nave to the crypt beneath the Cathedral. The crypt holds four more chapels, three of which depict the life of Christ, and the burial vaults. It is also the oldest entrance to the church. While the cathedral was under construction, the first services were held in the Bethlehem Chapel.
The Bethlehem Chapel’s theme is of course, the Birth of Jesus, and it is a lovely romantic and almost feminine chapel. Designed in the Neo-Gothic style the architect attempted to perfectly replicate the 14th century decorated Gothic style and his creation makes you feel as if you have been transported back to the 14th century with its delicate lacy tracery and tall graceful stretches curving to arched points above. The stained glass windows in the ambulatory tell the story of the Nativity.
The Bethlehem Chapel’s theme is of course, the Birth of Jesus, and it is a lovely romantic and almost feminine chapel. Designed in the Neo-Gothic style the architect attempted to perfectly replicate the 14th century decorated Gothic style and his creation makes you feel as if you have been transported back to the 14th century with its delicate lacy tracery and tall graceful stretches curving to arched points above. The stained glass windows in the ambulatory tell the story of the Nativity.
The Chapel of Joseph of Arimathea is dedicated to the bible figure who gave his sepulcher as a tomb for the crucified Jesus. The chapel is twelve steps below the level of the rest of the crypt to symbolize the descent into a tomb. The chapel is built in the Romanesque Style and is in the shape of a Greek cross. The focal point of the chapel is the painting above the altar which is the only mural in the cathedral. The scene depicts the entombment of Jesus and glows softly in the artificial light of the chapel.
In the rear of the chapel behind a wrought iron gate are the burial vaults. It is the resting place of artists, musicians, and others honored by the cathedral. This distinguished group includes famous supporter and activist for the deaf and blind, Helen Keller and her lifelong friend and teacher Anne Sullivan.
In the rear of the chapel behind a wrought iron gate are the burial vaults. It is the resting place of artists, musicians, and others honored by the cathedral. This distinguished group includes famous supporter and activist for the deaf and blind, Helen Keller and her lifelong friend and teacher Anne Sullivan.
When it comes to sparkling beauty, the Resurrection Chapel’s Byzantine style mosaics seem to shimmer and glow as if they were truly the stained glass windows they pretend to be. The chapel is built in the Norman style with heavy robust proportions, semi-circular arches and limited sculpture. The half-dome ceiling mosaic above the altar portrays the Resurrection. Golden rays of the sun radiate against a turquoise sky behind a risen Christ. The side “window” mosaics portray the appearances of Christ after the Crucifixion and the tiles glitter with bright gemstone colors.
After making my way back out of the crypt and toward the front of the cathedral, I noticed a small sign in front of the elevator that said “Observation Platform”. I quickly decided to check it out and took the elevator to the 7th floor inside one of the west towers. The views from there extended all the way to the Washington Monument and Georgetown and provided an interesting up-close look at buttresses and the carvings on the church pinnacles.
Before leaving, I also stopped into the Museum which displayed the cathedral history and construction methods and also had an exhibit about the recent repairs undergone after the 2011 earthquake which caused several sculptures to fall from the outside and also caused cracks and damage to the interior of the cathedral. Repairs are still under way, in fact if you look closely, there is netting spanning the entire nave and clerestory ceiling.
Before leaving, I also stopped into the Museum which displayed the cathedral history and construction methods and also had an exhibit about the recent repairs undergone after the 2011 earthquake which caused several sculptures to fall from the outside and also caused cracks and damage to the interior of the cathedral. Repairs are still under way, in fact if you look closely, there is netting spanning the entire nave and clerestory ceiling.
On your way out be sure to turn back and look at the Creation Sculptures which are in the tympanums (the half moons over the doorways) of the west portals. The center one, “Ex Nihilo” portrays the emergence of man out the void. These sculptures were designed and executed by Frederick Hart and the gifted Italian master carvers Palumbo and Morigi. The twisting bodies surge with energy as they climb out their stony nothingness.
A quick taxi ride back to Georgetown, and I was ready for my secular fun. Shopping! Georgetown has lots of high-end designer boutiques along M street and Wisconsin Avenue, so I wandered in and out of shops for several blocks indulging in mostly window shopping. Fortunately, most of the shops were having their summer sales, so I was able to snap up a couple great bargains even with my not-so-high-end budget.
Dinner that night was at the highly recommended Filomena Ristorante, one of the premier Italian restaurants in D.C. This restaurant is filled with old-country ambience of Abruzzi Italy with lace placemats, colorful plates, beamed ceilings and frescoed walls. The menu is extensive and the hit of our table were the Calamari Fritti appetizer which was delicately fried and served with mild and spicy marinaras and the Osso Bucco, a braised veal shank cooked to melting tenderness in rich veal stock, tomato sauce, red wine and diced vegetables, glazed in juices and served over creamy saffron-mushroom risotto. I couldn’t resist trying the Hazelnut Daquoise, a hazelnut meringue cake filled with hazelnut mousse and dark chocolate truffle, rich, decadent, high calorie……. I guess more walking would have to be part of the plan for the next day.
Dinner that night was at the highly recommended Filomena Ristorante, one of the premier Italian restaurants in D.C. This restaurant is filled with old-country ambience of Abruzzi Italy with lace placemats, colorful plates, beamed ceilings and frescoed walls. The menu is extensive and the hit of our table were the Calamari Fritti appetizer which was delicately fried and served with mild and spicy marinaras and the Osso Bucco, a braised veal shank cooked to melting tenderness in rich veal stock, tomato sauce, red wine and diced vegetables, glazed in juices and served over creamy saffron-mushroom risotto. I couldn’t resist trying the Hazelnut Daquoise, a hazelnut meringue cake filled with hazelnut mousse and dark chocolate truffle, rich, decadent, high calorie……. I guess more walking would have to be part of the plan for the next day.
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